Crochet Flower Power Backpack Pattern
Creating a crochet backpack is a delightful way to merge practicality with a touch of art. The Crochet Flower Power Backpack not only serves as a stylish accessory but also showcases the beauty of crochet motifs. This pattern features eye-catching floral designs, vibrant colors, and a charming drawstring closure, making it perfect for carrying essentials in style. Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or just starting, this backpack will make a lovely addition to your collection.
About the Bag
The Flower Power Backpack is designed with a playful floral motif that captures the spirit of spring and summer. With vibrant colors from Red Heart yarns, the backpack combines functionality with artistic expression. It is perfect for carrying your daily essentials while making a fashion statement. The unique motifs are worked in rounds, offering an engaging crochet experience.
Materials
To successfully create your Flower Power Backpack, you’ll need the following materials:
Yarn
- Red Heart® All in One™ Flower Power™ (8.8 oz/250 g; 417 yds/381 m)
- Contrast A Cherry Blossom (2000): 2 balls or 14 Flower Power Motifs
- Red Heart® Super Saver™ (7 oz/198 g; 364 yds/333 m)
- Contrast B Shocking Pink (0718): 1 ball or 178 yds/163 m
Tools
- Susan Bates® Silvalume® crochet hooks:
- Sizes U/S, G/6 (4 mm) and U.S. I/9 (5.5 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge.
- Susan Bates® yarn needle
- 2 large safety pins
Crochet Abbreviations
Here are the abbreviations used in this pattern:
- ch: chain
- dc: double crochet
- tr: treble crochet
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- sl st: slip stitch
- sp: space
- YOH: yarn over hook
Technical Notes
Flower Power Motif Notes
Each color aligns with specific rounds in the motif using three colors in total:
- Motifs begin with Color 1 (shortest color rep) from the center of the pull-skein, leaving a 4″ [10 cm] tail to weave in.
- The 2nd and 3rd rounds will be worked in Color 2.
- The 4th, 5th, and 6th rounds will be worked in Color 3.
- If too much color is left at the end of round, pull back some stitches and slightly loosen the gauge to re-work stitches and finish at the color change.
- If too little color is left, pull back some stitches and slightly tighten the gauge to re-work stitches and finish at the color change.
- At the end of the final round, the motif should measure 6″ [15 cm] square, with a long tail (at least 24″ [61 cm]) remaining.
- Adjust gauge as needed while working the 4th, 5th, and 6th rounds of Flower Motif to maintain the 6″ [15 cm] square finished size.
Join Motifs / Assembly Notes
- Make 14 motifs in total.
- The ch 3 at the beginning of a round counts as a dc.
- The ch 2 at the beginning of a round does not count as a stitch.
- Join all rounds with a slip stitch to the first stitch unless otherwise stated.
- Motifs are joined using B. Hold the working yarn underneath work to create a flat seam.
- Keep a loose, even tension on the yarn while joining to maintain the flatness of the motifs. Too tight tension will cause them to bunch up.
Flower Power Motif Instructions (Make 14)
With the larger hook and A, ch 4. Join with sl st to the first ch to form a ring.
Rounds
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1st rnd: Ch 3. 9 dc in ring. Join. (10 dc). Color 1 complete.
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2nd rnd: With Color 2, ch 3. 1 dc in the same space as last sl st. 2 dc in each dc around. Join. (20 dc).
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3rd rnd: Sl st in next dc. *(Ch 3. 1 tr) in the same st as last sl st. 3 tr in next dc. (1 tr. 1 dc) in next dc. Sl st in next dc.
- ***(1 dc. 1 tr) in next dc.
- 3 tr in next dc. (1 tr. 1 dc) in next dc.
- Sl st in next dc.
- Rep from * around, ending by joining with sl st to the top of ch-3 of the previous (2nd) rnd.
- Color 2 complete.
-
4th rnd: With Color 3, sl st in the first dc (top of ch-3 of 3rd rnd), to beginning rnd at start of the first petal. Ch 3.
- *1 dc in next tr. 1 hdc in next tr. 1 sc in next tr. 1 hdc in next tr. 1 dc in each of next 2 sts.
- 1 tr in dc of 2nd rnd below sl st.*
- 1 dc in next dc.
- Rep from * 3 times more, then from * to ** once. Join.
-
5th rnd: Ch 6 (counts as tr and ch-2). 1 tr in the same space as sl st.
- *2 dc in next st. Ch 1. 1 dc in next st. 1 hdc in next st. 1 sc in next st. Ch 1. Skip the next st. 1 sc in next st. 1 hdc in next st. 1 dc in next st.
- Ch 1. 2 dc in next st.*
- (1 tr. Ch 2. 1 tr) all in the next st.
- Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once. Join to 4th ch of ch-6.
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6th rnd: Sl st in next ch-2 sp. Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch). 1 hdc in the same ch-2 sp. Ch 3. 3 hdc in the same ch-2 sp. Ch 1.
- (3 hdc. Ch 1) in each ch-1 sp to next corner ch-2 sp.
- (3 hdc. Ch 3. 3 hdc) all in next ch-2 sp. Ch 1.
- Rep from * twice more, then from * to ** once. 2 hdc in the first ch-2 sp. Join. Fasten off.
Joining Motifs
Using the larger hook and B (as joining yarn), place 2 motifs beside each other, right side up.
- Using the larger hook, join B with sl st to the motif on the left in the ch-1 corner sp.
- Insert hook from front to back into the back loop of the corner ch-1 on this same left motif.
- Insert the hook from front to back into the back loop of the corner ch-1 sp of the right motif. (3 loops on the hook). YOH and draw through the 3 loops on the hook.
- *Insert the hook from front to back into the back loop of the next st on the left motif.
- Insert the hook from front to back into the back loop of the corresponding st of the right motif.
- YOH and draw through the 3 loops on the hook.*
- Rep from * to end of motif.
Join the motifs as indicated in the diagram: JOIN SIDES.
JOIN SIDES
- Fold the piece in half lengthwise, with wrong sides together.
- Ch 1. Working along the side edge, through both thicknesses to join, work 1 sc in each sc to the end of the row. Fasten off.
Straps (Make 2)
Using the smaller hook and B, ch 93.
Rows
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1st row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. (92 sc).
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2nd to 6th rows: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn. Fasten off at the end of the 6th row.
Place Straps
- Lay the piece flat.
- Pin the straps into place at the top edge on either side of the 2 center motifs, aligning ends of the straps with the last 6 sts of each motif.
- Place ends of the straps in the center of the bottom motifs. Using a yarn needle, sew into place.
Drawstring Edging
With a larger hook, join B with sl st to the top right corner of the bag.
Rounds
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1st rnd:
- Ch 1.
- *Work 1 sc in each dc and ch-1 sp to the first strap. Working through the side of edge stitches on the strap and sts of motif to join, work 1 sc in each st. Work 1 sc in the top of the seam.
- Work through both thicknesses of the second strap and backpack in each st to join.*
- Rep from * around, working 1 sc in each dc and ch-1 sp of motifs (21 sc along top of each motif), and 1 sc in the top of each joining seam to first sc.
- Join with sl st to the first sc. (132 sc).
-
2nd rnd:
- Ch 2.
- 1 hdc in first sc. 1 hdc in each sc around. Join with sl st to the first hdc.
Eyelet Round (For Flap Edging Sequence)
- Eyelet round: Ch 3 (counts as dc). 2 dc in the same sp as sl st. Skip the next 2 hdc.
- 3 dc in the next hdc. Skip the next 2 hdc.
- Rep from * around. Join with sl st to the top of ch 3.
Next 2 Rounds:
- Ch 1. 1 sc in each dc around. Fasten off at the end of the last round.
Flap
With the larger hook and B, ch 30.
Rows
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1st row: (RS). 1 dc in the 4th ch from hook (counts as dc). 1 dc in each ch to the end of ch. Turn. (28 dc).
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2nd and 3rd rows: Ch 3. 1 dc in each dc to end of row. Turn.
-
4th row: Ch 3 (counts as dc).
- Skip the next 2 dc. 3 dc in the next dc.
- Rep from * to last 3 dc.
- Skip the next 2 dc. 1 dc in the last dc. Turn.
-
5th row: Ch 3. 1 dc in the first dc (counts as 2 dc).
- Skip the next 3 dc. 3 dc between the next 3-dc group.
- Rep from * to last 4 dc. Skip the next 3 dc.
- 2 dc in the last dc (3rd ch of beg ch-4 of 3rd row). Turn. (6 groups of 3-dc)
-
6th row: Ch 3. Skip the next dc and 3-dc group.
- 3 dc between the next 3-dc group. Skip the next 3-dc group.
- Rep from * to last 2 dc. Skip the next dc.
- 1 dc in last dc. Turn. (5 groups of 3-dc)
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7th row: Ch 3.
- Skip the next 3-dc group. 3 dc between the next 3-dc group.
- Rep from * to last 3 dc group and dc. Skip the next 3-dc group.
- 1 dc in last dc. Turn. (5 groups of 3-dc)
-
8th to 10th rows: As 7th row. 2 groups of 3-dc at the end of the 10th row. Fasten off.
Assembly
Sew the flap to the top edge at the back, centering the flap with the center of the back.
Top Edging
With a larger hook, join B with sl st to any sc of the last top edging round at the back.
- Ch 1. Work 1 round of sc around the top edge of the bag and evenly along edges of the flap (approximately 2 sc into the side of each row, and 1 sc in each dc of the last row of flap).
- Join with sl st to the first sc. Fasten off.
Back Loop
With a smaller hook and B, ch 25.
Rows
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1st row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. (24 sc).
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2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. Turn.
-
Rep last row 6 times more. Do not fasten off at the end of the last row. Fold the Back Loop in half lengthwise.
Joining Row:
- Ch 1. Work 1 sc through each sc and the remaining loop of the foundation ch to the end of the row. Fasten off.
Sew the back loop to the backpack, placing each end on either side of the straps.
Drawstring
With a larger hook and 2 strands of B held together, ch 140. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Weave the drawstring through the eyelet row to create a drawstring closure, with the ends at the center front.
Frequently Asked Questions
What crochet hook is used for this pattern?
You will need Susan Bates® Silvalume® crochet hooks in sizes U/S, G/6 (4 mm) and U.S. I/9 (5.5 mm).
Is this project worked in rows or rounds?
The project involves working in rounds, specifically with motifs and assembling them later.
Does this crochet project require assembly?
Yes, assembly is involved as the motifs need to be joined together, and the straps and drawstring need to be sewn onto the backpack.
Conclusion
The Crochet Flower Power Backpack Pattern is a fantastic way to elevate your crochet skills while creating a beautiful and functional accessory. With its floral motifs and vibrant colors, this backpack is not only practical but also a delightful expression of creativity. Happy crocheting!
